Rolex GMT-Master II ‘Fat Lady’ 16760 - Coke Bezel - Original Warranty

At the beginning of the 1980s, Rolex introduced a model that would fundamentally redefine the GMT-Master line. The new reference 16760 represented not simply an evolution of the established GMT-Master, but the birth of an entirely new generation: the GMT-Master II.

At the heart of this important transition was the new Rolex Calibre 3085. Unlike the movements used in the preceding GMT-Master references, the 3085 introduced an independently adjustable local-hour hand, allowing the wearer to advance the hour hand without disturbing the 24-hour GMT indication. This seemingly simple yet significant innovation transformed the functionality of the watch, making it possible to read multiple time zones with considerably greater ease.

The introduction of the new movement also required Rolex to redesign the case. The Calibre 3085 was taller than its predecessors, resulting in a noticeably thicker and more substantial Oyster case, accompanied by broader crown guards and a more pronounced bezel. Collectors would soon give the reference its now-famous nickname, “Fat Lady”, also known as “Sophia Loren”, in reference to its distinctive proportions.

The reference 16760 therefore occupies a particularly important position within the history of the GMT-Master. It was the first reference to carry the GMT-Master II designation, and its relatively short production period, generally dated from 1983 to 1988, makes it considerably less common than the long-running 16710 that followed.

The 16760 also introduced a number of details that have since become particularly desirable among collectors. It was the first steel GMT-Master to feature a sapphire crystal and was associated with the distinctive red-and-black aluminium bezel insert that collectors refer to as the “Coke” bezel. Together with the thicker case architecture and the new independent-hour functionality, these characteristics give the reference an unmistakable identity within the Rolex sports-watch lineage.

The present example is particularly appealing for its early production period, being accompanied by its original Italian Rolex warranty documenting a sale in February 1986. This contemporary documentation provides an important link to the watch’s original commercial history and places the example firmly within the relatively short production era of the first-generation GMT-Master II.

Preserved in excellent overall condition, the watch displays only light and natural signs of previous use. The case retains an attractive and well-preserved appearance, while its characteristic proportions and substantial presence remain immediately recognizable as those of the sought-after Fat Lady.

The dial, with its distinctive matte surface and unmistakable vintage character, presents a tritium on both the dial and hands, with a beautiful straw-yellow hue. The warm and homogeneous coloration lends the watch an especially attractive aged appearance, enhancing the authentic vintage character of this early GMT-Master II. From a collecting perspective, the appeal of this example lies above all in its historical position. The reference 16760 represents the starting point of the GMT-Master II story, preceding the much longer-lived 16710 and establishing the mechanical and aesthetic language that would define Rolex’s traveller’s watch for decades to come.

A highly appealing example of the first-generation GMT-Master II, this reference 16760 stands out for its relatively short production run, distinctive “Fat Lady” case, pioneering Calibre 3085, early Italian provenance dating to 1986 and excellent state of preservation, embodying a significant chapter in the evolution of Rolex’s professional timepieces. A particularly desirable acquisition for discerning collectors, it represents an opportunity to own an important reference in the history of the GMT-Master lineage.