Rolex Submariner Date 1680 ‘Red Sub’ - ‘MK4’ Pallettoni Black Dial

The Rolex Submariner stands as one of the most iconic tool watches ever created, introduced in 1953 alongside models such as the Explorer and Turn-O-Graph. Designed to meet the demands of professional divers, it quickly established itself as a benchmark for robustness, legibility, and underwater performance. A significant evolution came in 1959 with the introduction of reference 5512, which marked a turning point in the model’s development through the adoption of a larger 40 mm case and the addition of protective crown guards—features that would become hallmarks of the Submariner line. In 1962, Rolex expanded the collection with reference 5513, conceived as a non-chronometer-certified alternative to the 5512, offering a more accessible entry point while maintaining the same professional specifications. The evolution continued in 1967 with the introduction of reference 1680, a pivotal model that brought a date complication to the Submariner for the first time. This addition significantly broadened the watch’s appeal, combining the functional reliability of a dive instrument with the everyday practicality of a date display—an innovation that remains integral to the Submariner identity today. Early examples of the reference 1680, produced until the mid-1970s, are distinguished by the so-called “Red Sub” configuration, in which the “Submariner” inscription appears in red. These early dials are particularly appreciated for their strong visual identity and have become highly sought-after among collectors. Later production shifted to monochromatic white text, further enhancing the desirability and collectability of the earlier executions. This example, produced in 1972, is fitted with a relumed MK4 “Red Sub” dial, a configuration widely appreciated among collectors for its visual appeal. The red “Submariner” signature contrasts strikingly against the matte black surface, while the refined serif typography—visible in both the text and numerals—adds a subtle sense of elegance when observed up close. After decades since its introduction, the Submariner reference 1680 continues to embody the transition from purely professional instrument to versatile everyday watch. Its historical importance, combined with the variety of dial configurations and ageing characteristics found across examples, ensures its enduring relevance within the broader narrative of vintage Rolex sports watches.