Rolex Submariner 5513 - ‘Bicchierini’ Black Glossy Dial

Few timepieces command instant recognition quite like the Rolex Submariner. a true icon not only in the world of dive watches but in watchmaking as a whole. First introduced in 1953, the Submariner entered what could be considered its ‘adulthood’ in 1959 with the debut of reference 5512. This reference brought with it several of the model’s most defining characteristics, including the increased 40mm case diameter and the introduction of crown guards. Before settling on the now-iconic rounded guards, Rolex experimented with two alternative crown protection designs, ultimately choosing the softer, more balanced shape we know today. The line expanded in 1962 with reference 5513, a non-COSC-certified version of the 5512, offering a more accessible alternative. Both models had remarkable longevity: the 5512 remained in production until 1978, and the 5513 until 1989. While not chronometer-certified, the Submariner 5513 benefits from a cleaner, less cluttered dial: thanks to the absence of two more lines of text at 6 o’clock. Over its long lifespan, the 5513 experienced several dial transitions, generally divided into three main types. First came the gilt dials, referred to as “mirror dials” by Japanese collectors, which carried forward the charm and styling of the 1950s. These were followed by the matte dials, the configuration most enthusiasts instinctively associate with the model. The final evolution, however, is the one that most clearly signals the Submariner’s shift toward its modern identity: the glossy black dial. Defined by its applied white-gold–framed indices, nicknamed 'Bicchierini' by Italian collectors, meaning 'little glasses'. The bicchierini dial introduced a noticeably more contemporary and refined aesthetic, setting the visual direction that continues to shape the Submariner today. This fine example of a 5513, dating to 1982, features a dial from this final category. Its glossy black surface subtly echoes the early gilt style, while the raised ‘Bicchierini’ markers give it a distinctly modern appearance. Well preserved, this Submariner 5513 stands as a great example of the final evolution of this legendary reference.