Rolex Submariner Date 1680 ‘Red Sub’ – ‘MK5’ Black Dial with Red Writing - ‘Ghost’ Faded Bezel

Rating: vB+
Reserve: No
Status: Approved by Stefano Mazzariol
Set: No
Lot: 2026G0404
Sold For
XX,xxx € loader
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on Tue 10/28/2025 at 4:05 PM (UTC)
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Description

Rolex Submariner Date 1680 ‘Red Sub’ – ‘MK5’ Black Dial with Red Writing - ‘Ghost’ Faded Bezel

Rolex Submariner Date 1680 'Red Sub' – 'MK5' Black Dial with Red Writing – 'Ghost' Faded Bezel Introduced in 1953 alongside the Explorer and Turn-O-Graph, the Submariner began to mature in 1959 with the arrival of reference 5512, a turning point in its evolution. This reference brought with it several of the model's most defining characteristics, such as the increased 40mm case diameter and the introduction of crown guards. In 1962, Rolex expanded the Submariner line with the introduction of reference 5513, a non-COSC-certified version of the 5512, designed as a more accessible alternative. Five years later, in 1967, the Submariner took another significant step forward with the debut of reference 1680, the first model in the family to feature a date complication. This long-awaited addition marked a major milestone in the collection's evolution, broadening its appeal beyond professional divers. By combining the rugged, tool-watch design with the everyday practicality of a date function, Rolex introduced a winning formula, one that has since become a mainstay in the catalog and a consistent best seller. Early examples of the 1680, produced until around 1975, featured the distinctive 'Red Sub' dial, where the word 'Submariner' appears in red. These early models are especially prized by collectors for their rarity and bold visual identity. Later versions replaced the red text with all-white lettering, making the original red writing dials, such as the one featured on the example for sale, particularly sought after today. Dating to 1973, this particular example features a stunning 'MK5 Scritta Rossa' dial, which we consider one of the finest variations ever produced by Rolex. The red "Submariner" text is directly printed on the dial, and the elegant serif font used across all graphics, even on the numerals, is a true delight when viewed under a loupe. Notably, this example showcases beautiful aging on the 'Pallettoni' hour markers and 'Mercedes' hands, both of which have developed a fabulous and warm cream patina. This charming color shift, combined with the bezel that has faded to a spectacular grey tone, commonly known as a 'Ghost' bezel, greatly enhances the watch's vintage appeal, making it an exceptionally attractive piece in the eyes of any collector. Overall, after more than 50 years, the watch remains in great condition. This presents an exciting opportunity for Submariner aficionados and vintage collectors alike. This 1680 'Red Sub' is a truly special specimen, available now to the highest bidder.

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Details

BRAND Rolex
BRAND Rolex
MODEL Submariner Date
REFERENCE 1680
YEAR 1973
CASE SIZE 40 mm
CASE MATERIAL Stainless Steel
STRAP/BRACELET MATERIAL Stainless Steel Oyster Folded Bracelet – 12 Links
GLASS Plexiglass
MOVEMENT Automatic Cal. Rolex 1570
DIAL 'MK5' Matte Black Dial with Red Writing
BEZEL 'Ghost' Faded Black Aluminium Insert
CLASP/BUCKLE Stainless Steel
RATING vB+
SET No