Rolex Submariner Date 16808 - ‘Sultan’ Champagne Dial - 18k Yellow Gold

Rolex Submariner Date 16808 – 'Sultan' Champagne Dial – 18k Yellow Gold In 1967, Rolex introduced the reference 1680, a pivotal milestone in the Submariner's evolution as it became the first model in the line to feature a date complication. This practical addition expanded the Submariner's appeal beyond professional divers, combining its rugged, tool-watch heritage with everyday usability. The formula proved highly successful, establishing a blueprint that continues to define the collection to this day. Beyond its functional and practical upgrade, the 1680 also marked the Submariner's debut in its most luxurious form, with the introduction of an 18k yellow gold version. This milestone signaled Rolex's growing interest in pairing technical performance with precious materials — albeit with a notable delay, considering that the GMT-Master 6542 had been offered in yellow gold as early as the 1950s. In 1979, Rolex introduced the reference 16800, the successor to the original Submariner Date 1680. This updated model brought a series of modern advancements that marked a significant evolution in the collection's history. Most notably, the aging Caliber 1575 was replaced with the then-new Caliber 3035, which, importantly, introduced a quick-set date function, a major improvement in everyday practicality. The traditional acrylic crystal was upgraded to a scratch-resistant sapphire crystal, which, combined with other structural enhancements, helped the watch achieve an impressive water resistance of 300 meters. Additionally, a key upgrade, particularly appreciated by professional divers, was the introduction of a unidirectional bezel, designed to prevent accidental rotation and ensure safer, more accurate dive timing. Building on the legacy of its predecessor, the 16800, Rolex also offered a precious metal variant under the reference 16808, as seen in the example offered for sale. Dating to 1983, this particular specimen is distinguished by its dial. Rather than the classic black or even the more striking blue, it showcases the most luxurious option available: a champagne dial. But not just any gold-tone dial, nicknamed by collectors as the "Sultan," this extravagant version features eight diamond-set indices, along with three sapphire-set markers at 6, 9, and 12 o'clock (two baguette cuts and one pyramid cut at 12). While the idea of a gem-set dial on a professional, purpose-built watch might seem unconventional, the combination is unexpectedly harmonious and refined. These dials, also referred to as "Serti" (from sertissage, meaning "gem-set" in French), add an extra level of elegance and opulence, practically unmatched in the world of sports watches. This timepiece was originally sold at Christmas in 1984 in Turin. It is fitted with a brown suede leather strap and has been preserved in excellent condition ever since. The watch comes with its original Rolex punched warranty.