Audemars Piguet Retailed by Cartier Extraplate Pocket Watch 5637BA

Rating: vB+
Reserve: No
Status: Approved by Maurizio De Angelis
Set: Cartier Pouch
Lot: 2026G0356
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Description

Audemars Piguet Retailed by Cartier Extraplate Pocket Watch 5637BA

Before the 1973 merger, Cartier operated as three distinct entities—Cartier Paris, London, and New York—each run independently by descendants of the founder. Of these, the Paris and London branches were considered the most refined, producing creations of exceptional quality and craftsmanship. Under the visionary Louis Cartier, Cartier Paris was responsible for many of the Maison's most iconic designs. Beyond its own celebrated models, it also discreetly retailed timepieces from other prestigious brands—a lesser-known facet of its early history. This pocket watch is a rare example of that practice: an Audemars Piguet Extraplate Pocket Watch, Reference 5637BA, retailed by Cartier Paris around 1966. The dial, signed only 'Cartier', features the brand's signature Roman numerals and omits the 'chemin de fer' minute track, lending it a clean, minimalist aesthetic—similar to some London-made pieces of the time. Opening the case reveals its Audemars Piguet origin, housing the ultra-thin AP Caliber 2001. As was customary, Audemars Piguet commissioned the case from Eggly & Cie, a Genevan casemaker known for producing top-tier cases for Switzerland's finest firms. The 23rd Geneva Key hallmark beneath the AP signature on the inner caseback confirms this. The outer caseback features the AP case serial number and the French hibou (owl) hallmark, denoting 18k gold imported into France—supporting its Swiss origin and French retail. Beneath the cabochon-set crown, a hallmark Cartier design element, lies its most definitive mark of provenance: the engraved Cartier Paris inventory number. In contrast to the Swiss-made case, the attached watch fob bears the French eagle's head hallmark, indicating it was crafted in France in 18k yellow gold. Likely paired with the watch by Cartier itself. Passed down through the original owner's descendants, this watch remains in excellent condition and is accompanied by a Cartier Pouch.

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Details

BRAND Audemars Piguet Retailed by Cartier
BRAND Audemars Piguet Retailed by Cartier
MODEL Extraplate Pocket Watch
REFERENCE 5637BA
YEAR 1966 (Circa)
CASE SIZE 42mm
CASE MATERIAL 18k Yellow Gold
STRAP/BRACELET MATERIAL 18k Yellow Gold Watch Fob
GLASS Plexiglass
MOVEMENT Automatic Cal. AP 2001
DIAL White with Printed Black Numerals Dial
BEZEL 18k Yellow Gold
CLASP/BUCKLE Na
RATING vB+
SET Cartier Pouch