Rolex Submariner Date 1680 - 18K Yellow Gold - Blue “ Nipple” Dial

Introduced in 1953 alongside the Explorer and Turn-O-Graph, the Submariner began to evolve into the design we recognize today with the release of reference 5512 in 1959. This milestone marked a turning point for the model, introducing key features that would define its identity for the remainder of the century, including an increased 40mm case diameter and the addition of crown guards. In 1962, Rolex expanded the line with the introduction of reference 5513, a non-COSC-certified version of the 5512 aimed at offering a more accessible option. In 1967, Rolex added a third pillar to the Submariner family with the introduction of reference 1680, the first Submariner with a date complication. Interestingly, reference 1680 not only introduced the date complication to the Submariner line but also marked the debut of the model in precious metal—following, with notable delay, the 1950s release of the GMT-Master 6542 in yellow gold. Internally designated as 1680/8, this reference was offered with either a black or sunray blue dial—the latter a first for the family—along with matching bezel inserts. Most notably, the earliest examples featured what collectors affectionately call “nipple” indices, a nickname inspired by their raised, rounded shape. The present example, dating to early 1973, is a distinguished early 1680/8, featuring a vibrant sunburst blue dial with the “feet first” depth rating—a subtle yet meaningful design evolution introduced around the turn of the decade as Rolex acknowledged the growing importance of the U.S. market and adjusted the dial layout accordingly. With its beautifully preserved, oxidized case bearing deep hallmarks, a richly patinated blue “nipple” dial, and a carefully matched dark blue strap, this watch is the ideal summer companion—though it’s better at catching compliments than catching waves.