Rolex Explorer II 16550 - Black Rail “Spider” Dial

Rolex Explorer II 16550 - Black Rail "Spider" Dial In 1971, the Explorer—originally launched in 1953—was reimagined as a more function-driven tool watch. Rather than replacing the original, Rolex introduced the Explorer II as a parallel line. The "II" designation would later become standard for modernized versions of other models, such as the GMT-Master II in 1982. The first Explorer II, reference 1655—nicknamed "Freccione"—embraced a bold 1970s aesthetic with a funky black dial, a bright orange 24-hour hand, and bezel graphics rooted in earlier design cues. Visually, it bore little resemblance to the Explorer II we know today. Bridging that gap was reference 16550, produced for only four years starting in 1985. It introduced a dial more in line with Rolex's professional series and, for the first time, offered a white dial alongside the black. This evolution was driven not only by shifting design trends or the desire to attract GMT-Master buyers, but also by professional needs. In 1979, British explorer Oliver Shepard commissioned a special-order Explorer II for the Transglobe Expedition—the first longitudinal circumnavigation of the Earth. His custom 1655 was fitted with a GMT-Master dial and hands to improve legibility and function in extreme conditions. As a result, many believe this served as the inspiration for the modern Explorer II as we know it today. The 16550 also introduced key upgrades: the scratch-resistant sapphire crystal and the updated movement Caliber 3085. The present timepiece, dating to 1984, is a remarkably well-preserved example, notable for the unique aging of its dial. The black lacquer surface shows the rare "Spider" effect—fine cracks in the top transparent layer resembling a spider's web, visible only when struck by light, giving the dial a dynamic, almost living quality. The dial features an additional plus, rendered in the rare "Rail" formatting used for 6 o'clock writings.