Rolex Submariner Date 1680 - Red Writing Dial - Faded Bezel

The Rolex Submariner is an icon—its design is among the most recognizable in the world of dive watches. The curves and proportions of this model have become a benchmark, inspiring generations of timepieces across the industry. The evolution of this historically significant watch—for both Rolex and horology as a whole—can be divided into three distinct eras: the 38mm case era, the 40mm case era, and the modern era with ≥ 40mm cases. In its earliest years, Rolex continuously experimented with different dials, crowns, and case configurations. From 1953, the year the Submariner debuted, to 1958, Rolex released seven distinct references—each contributing to the foundation of what would become a legend. The Rolex Submariner 5508 “Small Crown” “Gilt” Dial featured in our sale is an exceptional fine example of this era. To learn more about this foundational era, please refer to the description of the aforementioned lot (ID number 0805010). In 1959, the Submariner entered what could be considered its "adulthood" with the introduction of reference 5512, marking the beginning of the second phase. This reference brought with it several of the model's most defining characteristics, such as the increased 40mm case diameter and the introduction of crown guards. Before settling on the now-iconic rounded guards, Rolex tested three more different crown protection designs, ultimately choosing the softer, more balanced shape we know today. In 1962, Rolex expanded the line with the introduction of reference 5513, a non-COSC-certified version of the 5512 aimed at offering a more accessible option. It was initially equipped with the Rolex caliber 1520, and later upgraded to the caliber 1530. Unlike their predecessors, the 5512 and 5513 had remarkable longevity. The 5512 remained in production until 1978, while the 5513 continued until 1989. In 1967, Rolex added a third pillar to the Submariner family with the introduction of reference 1680, the first Submariner with a date complication. Early examples of the 1680—produced until around 1975—featured a distinctive “Red Sub” dial, where the word “Submariner” appears in red text. These "red writing" dials, such as the one featured on this example, were later replaced by versions with all-white text, which remained in production until 1979. The red-text variants are especially sought after by collectors for their rarity and their bold, unique visual identity. This particular piece features a well-preserved “Scritta Rossa” matte dial with “pallettoni” indices, identifiable as a Mark IV dial. Notably, this was the first version to feature the “feet first” depth rating—a design change Rolex made as they recognized the United States had become their primary market and adapted the layout to prioritize imperial measurements. The introduction of the 1680 marked a pivotal moment for the Geneva-based Maison, as Rolex recognized the growing appreciation for the practicality of a simple yet highly functional date complication. Its success—and that of its successors—firmly established the Submariner Date as a cornerstone of the Rolex collection. To this day, it remains one of the brand’s most sought-after models, admired by both seasoned collectors and first-time luxury watch buyers alike. This particular timepiece, dating to 1972, is offered in excellent condition and is now available to the highest bidder.