Zenith El Primero A386 - Three Color Subdials - Mk2 Dial - Gay Freres Ladder Bracelet

Zenith El Primero A386 In 1965, to celebrate its 100th anniversary, Zenith set out to overcome one of the greatest technical challenges in watchmaking history: creating the first self-winding mechanical chronograph movement. While automatic calibers had existed in some form since Abraham-Louis Perrelet's groundbreaking invention in 1770, no watchmaker had successfully adapted the technology to a chronograph. Although Zenith aimed to complete this ambitious project within its centennial year, the deadline was missed, and competitors entered the race, each vying to achieve what many considered the most significant horological breakthrough of the 20th century. Zenith ultimately triumphed, and the first watches equipped with its revolutionary El Primero caliber debuted in September 1969. Among these was the Ref. 384, featuring a 37mm stainless steel tonneau case, mushroom-style pushers, and a "panda" tricompax dial—a silvery-white backdrop with three black subdials, a red central chronograph hand, and a tachymeter scale along the edge. Another notable release was the Ref. A385, which showcased the industry’s first gradient-effect “smoked” dial. The dial transitioned from cream in the center to rich brown and black at the edges, paired with silvered white subdials. The most iconic of the trio was the Ref. A386, which introduced the now-legendary tricolor dial design: blue for the minute counter at 3 o’clock, gray for the hour counter at 6 o’clock, and silver for the running seconds at 9 o’clock. This design remains synonymous with the El Primero line and serves as the foundation for the Chronomaster Original series, a centerpiece of Zenith’s modern collection and a testament to the brand’s enduring legacy in watchmaking innovation. This specific timepiece is a very well conserved example dating from the early 1970’s. The watch is a vintage icon.