Rolex Submariner Date 1680 ‘Red Sub’ - ‘MK3’ Pallettoni Black Dial

The Rolex Submariner is widely regarded as one of the most iconic tool watches ever produced. Introduced in 1953 alongside models such as the Explorer and the Turn-O-Graph, it was engineered specifically for professional diving conditions and quickly became the reference standard for durability, readability, and underwater performance.

A major milestone in its evolution came in 1959 with the arrival of reference 5512. This model marked an important step forward, introducing a larger 40 mm case and the now-signature crown guards, elements that would define the modern Submariner aesthetic going forward.

In 1962, Rolex expanded the range with reference 5513, a non-chronometer version of the 5512. This variant was positioned as a more accessible alternative, while still retaining the same robust construction and professional dive-watch specifications.

The progression continued in 1967 with the introduction of reference 1680, a significant development in the Submariner lineage. This was the first model to feature a date complication, adding a new layer of practicality and broadening its appeal beyond purely professional use. The integration of the date function helped establish a balance between tool-watch functionality and everyday versatility, a characteristic that remains central to the Submariner line today.

Early production examples of the 1680, manufactured until the mid-1970s, are especially notable for the “Red Sub” dial configuration, where the “Submariner” text is printed in red. These versions are highly distinctive visually and have become particularly desirable among collectors. Later iterations transitioned to all-white printing, which further emphasized the uniqueness and collectability of the earlier red-text dials.

This example, produced in 1971, is fitted with an MK3 “Red Sub” dial, one of the most recognisable and appreciated configurations amongst collectors of vintage Rolex sports watches. The MK3 dial is distinguished by its characteristic “meters first” depth rating and by the specific typography of the red “Submariner” inscription, executed in a slightly thicker and more vivid print compared to earlier executions. 

The contrast between the red signature and the matte black dial surface gives the watch a particularly charismatic appearance, further enhanced by the warm patina typically developed by the tritium indexes over time. Combining strong aesthetic identity with historical significance, the MK3 configuration is widely regarded as one of the most desirable executions within the reference 1680 production.

More than five decades after its introduction, the Submariner reference 1680 continues to embody the transition from purely professional diving instrument to versatile everyday sports watch, securing its enduring importance within the broader narrative of vintage Rolex collecting.