Rolex Submariner 5508 “James Bond” Black Gilt Dial - “Small Crown” - Oyster Riveted Bracelet

Rating: vA
Reserve: No
Status: Approved by Carlo Pergola
Set: No
Lot: 2026G0278
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Description

Rolex Submariner 5508 “James Bond” Black Gilt Dial - “Small Crown” - Oyster Riveted Bracelet

1953 marked a pivotal year in Rolex's history, with the rapid introduction of three iconic models: the Rolex Turn-O-Graph, the Rolex Explorer, and the Rolex Submariner. With the Turn-O-Graph, Rolex introduced the rotating bezel—a feature that, although first appearing on that model, would find its most significant and enduring application in the Submariner. While it may not have been the very first, the Submariner quickly became the most iconic and widely appreciated of its kind. In the first three years following its debut, the Submariner underwent rapid evolution. Introduced in 1953, the first reference 6204 was replaced just a year later in 1954 by the 6205. Then, in 1955, the 6205 gave way to the reference 6200, often referred to as the "King Sub", as this model was the first to feature the larger 8mm Brevet crown paired with a thicker case, allowing it to double the previous depth rating. In 1956, Rolex released two new references simultaneously: the 6536, nicknamed the "Small Crown," and the 6538, known as the "Big Crown." The 6536 represented a step back in robustness compared to the 6200, featuring a slimmer case and a return to the smaller 6mm crown—hence its nickname. This version also reverted to a maximum depth rating of 100 meters. The 6538, however, retained the 8mm crown and thicker case, giving it a bolder, more rugged look and superior diving performance. Continuing the pattern in 1958, Rolex introduced the final iterations of this early Submariner lineage: the references 5510 and 5508. The 5510 would be the last "Big Crown" Submariner, while the 5508 followed the 6536 format with a slimmer case paired with a smaller crown. Both models were upgraded with the new caliber 1530, a significant technical advancement for the line. Reference 5508 holds a unique place in Submariner history. It was the last model to feature the original smaller 38mm case without crown guards and the final Submariner to carry the original 100-meter depth rating. This particular example, reference 5508, dating to 1959, is an exceptional survivor—remarkably well-preserved after 66 years. It features a stunning and extremely well-preserved gilt black dial, with silver depth rating and "Submariner" texts, which contrasts beautifully with the rest of the gold-toned graphics against the glossy, mirror-like dial surface.

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Details

BRAND Rolex
BRAND Rolex
MODEL Submariner
REFERENCE 5508
YEAR 1959
CASE SIZE 38mm
CASE MATERIAL Stainless Steel
STRAP/BRACELET MATERIAL Stainless Steel Oyster Riveted - 11 Links
GLASS Plexiglass
MOVEMENT Automatic Cal. Rolex 1530
DIAL Black “Gilt” Dial
BEZEL Black Aluminum Insert
CLASP/BUCKLE Stainless Steel Déployante
RATING VA
SET No