Rolex Submariner Date 1680 - Extremely Rare ‘Tiffany & Co’ Black Matte Dial

Double-signed dials represent among the most sought-after variations in vintage Rolex collecting, offering a particularly fascinating combination of rarity, provenance and historical significance. Applied alongside the manufacturer’s signature, the name of the retailer recalls a bygone era in which prestigious jewellers and leading boutiques played a fundamental role in introducing Swiss watches to discerning clientele across international markets. At a time when the reputation of an established retailer could be as significant as that of the manufacturer itself, only a select number of houses were granted the privilege of signing Rolex dials, and even then, this distinction was reserved for a limited number of watches.

Among these prestigious retailers, Tiffany & Co. occupies a particularly distinguished position. The renowned New York jewellery maison maintained longstanding relationships with some of the most important Swiss manufacturers of the 20th century, including Rolex and Patek Philippe. Watches bearing the Tiffany & Co. signature are consequently regarded as exceptional manifestations of both horological and retail history, with surviving examples remaining notably scarce.

Dating to 1977, the present Rolex Submariner Date reference 1680 belongs to the later production period of the model, the first Submariner to feature a date indication. Its black matte dial is distinguished by the exceptionally rare “Tiffany & Co.” signature, together with the all-white printing characteristic of the later examples of the reference.

The dial is preserved in excellent condition, with its characteristic “Pallettoni” hour markers displaying an attractive and entirely natural ageing. Of particular note is the luminous material, which has developed a warm yellow-straw patina over the decades. This harmonious coloration lends the dial considerable warmth and character, further enhancing the individuality of an already exceptionally rare example.

The watch presents in really good overall condition, with a notably full case and geometries that remain well respected. Any polishing carried out by professionals over the years appears to have been executed with care, preserving the original proportions and characteristic lines of the case. Minor signs of use are consistent with the age of the watch.

Combining the iconic appeal of the Submariner Date with the exceptional rarity of a Tiffany & Co. double-signed dial and beautifully aged luminous material, this 1977 reference 1680 represents a particularly noteworthy example of vintage Rolex collecting, where rarity, provenance and natural ageing converge in a highly distinctive timepiece.