Rolex Submariner No Date 5513 - ‘Bicchierini’ Black Glossy Dial

Among the most influential wristwatches ever created, the Rolex Submariner occupies a unique position in horological history. Conceived as a professional diving instrument and introduced in 1953, it rapidly transcended its original purpose to become one of the most recognisable and enduring watch designs of all time.

A major milestone in the Submariner’s evolution came with the introduction of reference 5512 in 1959, establishing many of the design elements that would become synonymous with the collection, including the 40 mm Oyster case and crown guards. In 1962, Rolex introduced reference 5513, a non-chronometer-certified alternative that retained the same robust architecture while offering a clean and uncluttered dial layout. Produced until 1989, the 5513 became one of the longest-running Submariner references and remains a favourite among vintage Rolex collectors.

Over its production period, the reference evolved through several dial configurations, from early gilt examples to the matte dials that defined much of its vintage identity. During its final years, Rolex introduced glossy dials with applied white-gold surrounds around the luminous indexes, giving the late 5513 a more refined and contemporary appearance.

The present example, dating to 1989, belongs to the very final production period of reference 5513 and is fitted with the highly desirable black glossy “Bicchierini” dial. The watch is preserved in very good overall condition, displaying only normal signs of use consistent with its age. The dial remains clean and attractive, retaining the characteristic balance and unmistakable appearance of a late-production 5513.

The bracelet is likewise in very good condition, with only a light amount of play between the links, entirely typical of a bracelet that has seen regular use over several decades.

An attractive and authentic example from the final chapter of the legendary 5513, this Submariner combines the purity of the classic no-date design with the sophisticated aesthetic of the late “Bicchierini” dial, making it an appealing proposition for both collectors and enthusiasts of vintage Rolex.